Kalymnos 2010 - Trip Report 8 (Arhi, Summertime, Sybelgades)

You thought the trip reports were over? Nah, couple more weeks yet! Please explain? So our first climbing camp finished up a few days ago, and with one day of rest (aka madly editing video until the wee hours -- coming soon), our second group flew in bright eyed and ready to hit the rock.

But first, some introductions. We have Ronsley and Lena, both fairly new to the climbing game, and on the other end of the spectrum is Dave Reeve, who at 60 was climbing well before I was born. Dave's recently ticked his hardest route ever (7b/25) and he and his wife Ruth are both Upskill Kalymnos alumni having joined us on our 2008 trip. Andy is our fifth member and has been climbing 10 years or more. So - quite the mixed bag!

Flying in early gave us time to settle in, and perfect weather lent itself to a swim. A nice way to start the holiday.

Andy, Lena, Ronsley and Dave on day 1

Ruth on the sharp end at Arhi on day 1

After a good night's sleep the crew awakened to another crystal clear day. The discussion topic over breakfast was goal setting for the trip and the difference between process and outcome focus in climbing. We then jumped in the car (and two on a scooter) and headed to the left slabs of Arhi.

There we got stuck into a few of the typical grey slabs to get used to proper footwork and to blow out the cobwebs and have a gradual warmup. Centauro 5c, Ercole 5c and Pares 6a were the routes of choice. The sun then pounced like a street cat avoiding a Fiat Panda, so we bailed to Summertime to beat the heat.

Lena tripled her lifetime lead tally (of 1) with leads of Dorian and July. Dave didn't remember the sequence on the tough Macabi 6b+, but had no problems with it at all (stronger this time from all the core work at Coolum!). Ronsley's effort went into a clean TR of the classic bucket route Ammochohostos Vaselivousa 6a. A top first day.

Our second day dawned a hot one too with bugger all on the Beaufort (translation: no wind), so we made what ended up being a great call and headed to Sybelgades Rocks. And it does! A compact gully with limestone that looks like...well...I'll show you:

Yes, like that. Cool huh? Ghoulish. So, the classic easy(ish) route to do here is Phineus 5c, which is just the most featured and yet least sharp rock you could wish to imagine. Features, all covered in features, with these covered in micro-pockets. Holds galore. Andy onsighted, Lena toproped, Ronsley did both, Ruth flashed it, it was all happening. Dave blitzed up the long and ongoing Climber's Nest 6a with it's cool top overhang, what's more so did Ruth (on lead no less) after an early struggle on toprope.

Andy fell off the final moves of the roof and tech arete Homo Sapiens 6c, but fired it second go after ticking a few hidden holds. Dave got inspired and cruised to two thirds height before taking quite a big, off-balance fall due to a sudden onset of pump and subsequent loss of tension through to the feet in a sketchy section. I gave him a nice soft catch and he's a-ok.

Andy on Homo Sapiens 6c

Andy sunk his teeth into the crag testpiece Ermix, a tough 7a. This route is great, because it has only one shake out point, then it's game on for about 4-5 bolts to the anchors. True test of power endurance. Also ideal for working on our redpointing tactics (ticking holds, re-working sequences, sequence memory, body positions and maximum efficiency movement). No tick, but big learning, which is what this whole thing is about.

Effort of the day though has to go to Ronsley. The route was Carlo Juliani 6a, a near vertical wall route. He was about halfway up when the pump set in. You could see the mental battle that was going on. He called for a take, but the belayer (I forget who that was) refused and everyone yelled encouragement. He pushed through, got the next good hold and was able to clip the next bolt, made it a handful more moves before throwing, not latching the hold, and taking the whip. He came off trying. Nice soft catch. Big thumbs up. [He blogged about the experience] When everything in your head is screaming at you to take the soft option and have a sit, or grab the draw - NOT doing that, and actually giving it 100% and battling on - that is climbing. That is mental toughness. This is what we need to train. And you train it by doing it. As much as you can. I felt a lot of pride today.

Andy onsighting Phineus 5c

Kalymnos 2010 - Trip Report 7 (Finale)

After spending our rest day on a caving adventure, including accessing a supposedly closed cave via a squeeze attempted by only three of seven team members, it was GAME ON for a day of rematches at the crag we'd all like to have in our backyard - Odyssey.

It always seems to be cold when we rock up, so warming up well  and staying warm while on belay is the challenge. Glenn, who has struggled with the cold rock during the warm up's at Odyssey fell off his 6a+ warm up Femio as he had done the previous day, but managed to pull off the redpoint today :) Once warm, he went on to onsight the classic 6b+ Atena. Sheree showed cold was no issue for her with a flash of Atena on top rope.

Owen had a score to settle with his redpoint project Amphora 7b. This pumpy route worked his weaknesses (power endurance) nicely, so was the perfect holiday project. Matt decided to try it with him which was great, as they were able to share beta and get psyched on it together. On his first burn, he fell on the low crux and so did the smart thing, and went bolt to bolt, remembering and solidifying the moves without wasting undue energy. Too many people make the mistake of trying to minimise falls on the route on redpoint day once they've fallen low. No point! Decide if you're training or sending. If you're in sending mode - don't waste any energy!

Matt then had a burn and flashed through the low crux only to pump off up high. That was enough encouragement for Owen who sent it next shot. It was still a good fight though, right through to the super quick anchor clip. Matt rode the wave of sendage and finished it on his second try ("It's so pumpy, there's no kneebars!"). For the tradster Owen, this two day, fifth shot send of a 7b/25 is the longest time he's spent on a route, and his hardest send to date! Imagine what he could climb if he really sunk his teeth into the redpointing game (and we were able to keep him away from his other great loves, football and cricket).

Susy G, still exhausted from her triumphant prize fight of two days ago decided to revist an old dog from the 2008 camp - Itaca 6c+. The route doesn't look much with its slabby start, but it quickly rears into a really steep headwall on mostly big pockets. Notice I say mostly, because there are a couple of brick moves for 6c+. She threw four solid burns into it today and came off the final hard move. A bit of a heartbreaker for sure, but the best thing? She came off trying! Big thumbs up G-Star.

Glenn had buggered his leg muscles a bit in that fall off Trella the other day. So it was props when he decided that - yep - back on the hardest route he's tried - Dafni 7b. Couple of burns and a new highpoint. And here's where I can point out a difference between average climbers and elite climbers. Average climbers who are outcome focussed would see Glenn's effort as a failure (no tick) and hence avoid putting themselves in that situation by trying a hard route. Elite climbers who are process focussed would view Glenn's effort as a breakthrough, and fantastic for both physical and mental training. To really progress, you must learn to love the so called failures. The more "failing" you do, the stronger you get and the more you learn.

The final day of climbing dawned all too soon, and it was the special crag Sybelgades Rocks which played host to a crew with enthusiastic minds, and somewhat war-weary bodies. The drive there is an adventure in itself, but the mighty Matiz made it (most of the way) there in fine style and with limited screaming from the passengers. There's nothing over 7a at the crag, but the routes that are there are of amazing quality, on fluted limestone - very different for Kalymnos. Phineas 5c (pictured below with Glenn leading) would have to be one of the best easy routes on the island. Everyone in the team led it.

I warmed up on the musical 7a Ermix and fell four bolts when a tiny flake I was holding decided to let go while I was clipping (thankfully at my waist). That was funny and unexpected. Sam guided the crew up one of her fave routes on the island, Climbers Nest 6a. Super juggy up slabs and past caves with a final overhang section for spice. We finally all got to see what Sheree was capable of when we suggested she have a top rope on the hardest route at the crag - Ermix 7a. I'd fallen off it, the boys had fallen on it, but (not knowing the grade) she wasn't phased. And on her first try she damn near did it - coming off up high on the crux, a couple of moves from easy ground. It was not far off. She rated it her route of the trip.

I'd taken half the team home while Matt and Susy continued their ticking rampage. I came back to collect them bearing coffees, and promptly fell asleep at the cliff waiting for them to finish up. On our arrival back down at the car I discovered I'd lost the car keys. Noooooo! Back up to the crag for me. Thankfully found them where I'd been lying. Whew.

That night was an extra special final meal at Rita's, and games of Connect 4 and Backgammon at Fatolitis while we swapped stories and the group reflected on great climbs and great experiences shared. Will these guys be back in Kalymnos? I think it's only a question of whether it'll be in 2011 or 2012 :)

Thanks for following our adventures.

Upskill Kalymnos 2010 Climbing Camp #1 (L-R): Lee, Matt, Sam, Sheree, Glenn, Owen, Susy

Stay tuned on the Upskill blog as another five contenders join us shortly to write their own Kalymnos chapters.

Kalymnos 2010 - Trip Report 6 (Grande Grotta rematch)

So, you might remember from the other day that we had a score to settle. There were a few things on the agenda and the crew was rather psyched. Psyched enough to get up earlier (ugh!) and walk up the hill to be the first ones at the crag for our pick of the routes. Get the photographer in position, things are about to start...

Match up's for the day

Glenn vs Trella 40m 7a

Matt vs Ivi 18m 7b

Owen vs DNA 20m 7a+

&

**Title fight in the main arena**

Susy vs Trella 40m 7a

Glenn was up first on Trella. After a few knocks early, he pushed through, only to be knocked out in the fifth round. During the fall he jarred his knee which then began to seize up. After going through to the anchors, he retired hurt - to assume the role of belayer/photog/heckler.

Matt (aka Slab King, Coolum Kid, Kneebar Kid, Little Cactus) decided he'd conserve energy and bolt to bolt his first shot on Ivi. This ensured he had more than enough juice in the tank on the second shot to knock Ivi out, and add it to his scorecard.

I don't know why anyone would have assumed differently, but the Owen vs DNA fight was totally rigged. The slab man looked cool as a cucumber on the 40 degree overhanging route and DNA didn't seem to put up much of a fight at all.

It was at this stage when a nice French family walked up to the crag. Mum, Dad and two boys, 11 and 6. The 11 year old promptly fired off DNA and Ivi while the 6 year old ran around snapping photos for the sponsors with a giant Pentax SLR. After putting the camera down, the 6 year old toproped DNA to clean the gear. The 11 year old then moved on to Aegialis 7c.

Owen: "Well, I know I'm better than a 6 year old French kid, but not as good as an 11 year old French kid. I think I'm about 8 and a half."

But now the main event. In the blue corner, weighing in at 7a and some tens of thousands of kilos... TRELLA!! And in the pink corner weighing in at some number of kilos which cannot be disclosed due to fear and possible litigation... SUSY G!! This my friends was a battle royale. There was no love lost between these old foes. Susy had been on Trella on the 2008 camp and had fallen high on the route. She'd been on it the other day and had a battle. The rematch was today and we'd all gathered to see the result. Long story short, she got knocked out in the first round several times, but then in the second round she got her second wind and climbed all the way to within metres of the anchor before looking very shaky and out of sorts. A herculean effort was expended, and she fought tooth and nail to clip the anchors. It was a huge relief for the onlookers and we couldn't wipe the grim and bloody smile off her face all afternoon. Still feeling adrenalized, she raced around the corner to Afternoon sector and farewelled the nails slab Bye Bye Doc 6c from her dog list.

Other efforts included Glenn and Sheree's clean ascents of the pumpy anti-crack Carpe Diem 6b, my close onsight of the nearly 50m long Joggle & Toggle Extension 7b+, French local guide Simon's 1.5 hour epic onsight attempt of Priapos Extension 8a/+ where he fell within a handful of metres of the top, and various slabbings from 4-6 at Afternoon.

After the battles of the day, the victors were rewarded with chocolate milkshakes, the losers consoled with icepacks. We wrapped up the day with a team viewing of the latest episode of Survivor.

Coming up next... Odyssey rematch!

Kalymnos 2010 - Trip Report 5 (Spartacus & Afternoon)

Hey again.

It dawned on us a little bit cold and a little bit windy. Good friction though! The module we completed in the morning over breakfast was on "The art of warming up" and it was an appropriate one for the day.

The sector Spartacus is one of my favourites. I think the group is getting sick of me saying something is my favourite. They're all my favourites! Well, not really, but there's so many good things here. Spartacus is a large orange bowl, with long tufa-streaked vertical walls on either side, and then slabs on the outer margins of these. Nearly all the routes are long and require all of your 70m rope, and sometimes more than this! You know I love the long routes, so Spartacus is always going to be a winner.

When we got up there, there was a Norwegian climber on the namesake route Spartacus 7b+ which pumps right through the main bowl, and it was clear he was right at his limit. His Aussie beleayer told us as he moved through the overhang that this was his fourth day on this, his project. Well - that got us all psyched, and when he started to shake and wobble on the final moves, we all lent our cheers to his grunts and yells, and he topped out by the skin of his teeth. Always sooo good to see a great fight! Inspiring!

Tales of Greek Heroes is a super long 6b+ slab on the right margin of the bowl, and only just allows one to return to terra firma on a 70m rope. The boys led this, and the girls top-roped to warm up. Sam kept saying she was off, yet for whatever reason didn't fall and kept truckin' to the anchors. It's an interesting route - some find it quite hard for the grade, and yet for others, this is their first route at 6b+, so who knows!

Harikiri in the main bowl is Sam's project from last trip. The modest grade of 6b belies its overhung nature, pumpy climbing and sequency cross throughs. Glenn discovered this when he fell off with pumped arms and "numbish" fingers. Even Sheree came off. That's rare! Matt flashed it and said "This should be 7a! Plus!" Lol. Well, maybe not, but it is an ideal tough project for someone at the grade. Susy climbed it again as part of her warm-up and climbed it much more smoothly than on the last camp, finding the classy crossover this time.

Les Amazones is a super popular 30m 6c which takes the most tufarish section of wall right of the bowl. Matt and Owen (see pic below on the sit-down rest) both climbed this straight up, loving the tufas and pockets. Matt declared it his route of the day.

There's a brand spanking new extension to Les Amazones called Ares 7b+ which I'd heard was a beautiful route. I botched the onsight dynoing off a one finger pocket to another one finger pocket which in hindsight, I'm glad I missed, as the proper sequence avoid all such silliness. Top climb, and no kneebar rests - shock horror! I really had to rockclimb it.

We also enjoyed Nabouchodonosor 35m 6c and the unpronouncable Mon Batchounousougounoudoudou 30m 6c+ which Owen fought his way through on the onsight as much as I just fough my way through the typing of it. The real corker though was the 30m 7a Kerveros. What an awesome route (one of my favourites). It has tufas, pockets, blobs and traverse sequences all packed into a gently overhung orange wall. Susy and Glenn went to the top with one or two hangs, Matt and Owen flashed it.

We then headed down to Afternoon sector for some slab warm downs. There's a bunch of 5's down there and the kids swarmed all over them. Sheree led a couple (see pic) and there was even some harder climbs done here too with Janas Kitchen 6b and the tough Bye Bye Doc 6c getting ascents from most of the team. I tried one slab in sneakers with no hands. There was some cool moves to be had like a arm-waving dyno to chest smear. I ended up falling on the second bolt with grazed nipples.

After our goat whispering antics of yesterday, it was clear what dinner would be tonight. We sought out the local shepherd family restaurant and feasted on goat. Verdict? Pretty good. Don't think I'll be switching steak for goat when I get home, but when in goatland...

Are you still reading? If so, leave a comment and say hi. Touching other climbers is a good thing. No, not touching like that. Sheesh.

Kalymnos 2010 - Trip Report 4 (Grande Grotta)

It's THE most famous area on the island. A truly world class cave, possibly the most heavily stalactite-laden climbing cave in the world. You call it the Grande Grotta. We call it today's playground :) Seriously, the Grande Grotta is spectacular. You've never seen such rock architecture, absolute chock-covered with dripping stalactites. It's crazy. And the routes are crazy.

We had a sprinkle of rain in the morning. That was all it took to ensure we'd have a crowd up in the cave sector, where you can be guaranteed dry rock. Because of this, Owen wasn't taking any chances. No warm up, his rope was placed directly underneath Trella 7a, the mind boggling 40m pitch of uber proportions. (Trella translates to 'madness'). He laced himself to the nines with a veritable hula-skirt of quickdraws, and set to work. Like most of the insanely steep routes here, Trella does have rest positions, and the key to climbing it is to find the rests and use them well. Whether it's riding a stalactite, copping a kneebar, or bridging between your feet and back like a chimney. Owen used them all and came to within two metres of the top of the giant beast. It was then we saw him start to shake and the cry echoed out "You've got to be kidding me!". As if sensing his plight, everyone in the Grotta stopped, paused, and then erupted into encouragement in all languages. "Allez Allez!" "Venga!" "Come on!" With his last ounce of strength, he held it together, made the final move and clipped the anchor. Cheers!

Susy's fave pitch from the last camp was Trella and she'd pitched off the finale. So there's no doubt it was going down on this trip. Not today though! It's a tough unit and commands respect every time, as Glenn found out at about the 2/3 point on his flash attempt when he climbed high, yet could not get into a stable position to clip. The resulting fall was a biggie. Maybe 8-10m? Later in the day for some extra training, he toproped the line to clean the quickdraws only to fall on the final hold! Well, we know the route won't be getting underestimated at the next rematch (stay tuned).

The route DNA 7a+ is in the guts of the Grotta and is steeeeep. Perhaps 40 degrees overhung for its entire 20m length. Huge holds for sure, but you better be able to find those rests, otherwise your forearms may explode. We asked Matt if he'd try for the onsight. "Nah, I can't onsight it - I'll try for the flash." Huh? You haven't been here before!? "Well, I watched the video on YouTube." Ahh - climbing in the modern age! After he somehow talked Susy into putting the quickdraws up for him, he didn't disappoint, with a very smooth flash of the route, finding two upside down hands off double kneebars, amongst a multitude of other rests. So, a 'hardest flash' PB for the Slab King.

Speaking of kneebars, Sam managed to wrangle her first hands free kneebar on her ascent of Monahiki Elia 6a+. This pumpy steep route had been a nemesis for the Slab Queen on previous trips, so she did really well to fire it off first try. Sheree did likewise.

And me? Well I had a ripper day running around shooting video, taking photos, avoiding doing much belaying, and I even managed to do some climbing. In fact, one of my best onsighting days I've had. It was "Attack of the Long Routes". Packed away safe and sound were Aeolia Extension 40m 7a+, Tufantastic 40m 7b+, and Super Carpe Diem 40m 7c. The 7c (my best OS grade) was a funny one, as Sam had already walked down with most of the group and as I was getting ready to climb, I realised she had my climbing shoes. So the only option was to wear hers! Thank goodness 1) my wife and I have the same size climbing shoes, 2) it's a steep Kalymnos route and footwork is optional and 3) I'm comfortable wearing ladies shoes.

Oh, and on the walk-out, I touched a goat. I am now the goat whisperer.

Kalymnos 2010 - Trip Report 3 (Ghost Kitchen and Kastelli)

Second day on, and tired muscles would be rejuvenated by the big breakky buffet! Yum! Living the life of climbing bums sure is hard.

Ghost Kitchen sits high above Skalia village and looks down on the blue ocean with its high-domed, arching roof which protects a gently overhung main wall with the most unbelievable stalactites and tufas. It's the cliff that has "6c's as far as the eye can see". If you're climbing the 6c-7a (22-23) level, this area is primo.

Owen and Glenn were first up to the cliff and both dispatched the four star 30m Resista 6c+. (Kalymnos doesn't actually have the fourth star in the guidebook - it uses a musical note symbol - for when stars simply aren't enough!) Owen smoothly onsighted which was a top effort. I thought the route was pretty bloody hard actually, I think I underestimated it. Some long locks off two finger pockets when you're pumped at the top. Owen said the top section "might be the best 15m of climbing I've done - ever!" Glenn flashed it, and also loved it. I haven't found anyone who hasn't gushed over that climb. It does have some cool crossover sequences and monster pockets. Sheree enjoyed Joy In The Garden 6a+, another long slab and wall route.

Matt had been jonesing for Dafni 6c+ (not to be confused with Dafni 7b at Odyssey) since seeing the pics of Susy wrestling the deer on the 2008 camp. The bizarre climbing which switches between monstrous stalactite blobs and technical pinches and slippery footers meant the onsight was foiled. "That's the only onsight I really cared about!" Bummer. But then again, climbing isn't meant to be easy. The best ones are the ones you have to fight for. To his credit, Matt did his time sussing out everything on the route so that on the second shot, there was absolutely no doubt. Locked in the satchel.

Dafni had taken Susy a few shots on the 2008 trip too. The style of this main wall at Ghost Kitchen was a challenging one. So it was to her credit that she climbed with such a great focus and determination to onsight Remember Wadi Rum 6c up the guts of the main wall. This route makes use of nearly every technique in climbing - crimps, jugs, handlebar rests, kneebars, stemming, chimneying - it's got it all! Glenn and Owen also 'remembered'. I cleaned up the remaining couple of routes I hadn't done on the wall. On both Sisyphus Junior extended 7b and Durgol 7a I underestimated the quickdraw load and had to enter backcleaning mode before scurrying through to the anchors.

But there's no doubt that the tick of the day was Sheree's. Let's paint the picture here a second. Sheree is a naturally strong climber, but she almost never lead climbs. Prior to this trip she'd done only a couple of leads. In Kalymnos, she's been leading nearly every day. Today however she really pulled out the stops with a rock solid lead of the smooth slab Parasitos, graded 6a+ or 19! She actually climbed it more smoothly than any of the team who repeated it. And this is her hardest lead by several grades. It makes us all wonder what she's actually capable of.

There was a few hours of light left, so the perfect place to while away the afternoon was Kastelli. It's right down by the sea and hosts some routes that are in a truly magical position perched above the ocean. The ocean was so inviting in fact that I scrambled down the slope and took the plunge. The route to do here is Pillar Of The Sea 6a+ which everyone climbed, and I took a million silhouette photos. Sheree's was best thanks to her ponytail.

Sam and Susy also raved about the next door Merci Brothers 6a. So I guess we have to thank the Remy brothers for that one. Cheers boys!

The team watched the latest episode of Survivor and *spoiler alert* couldn't believe the coup that Russell enacted. Unbelievable! :)

Kalymnos 2010 - Trip Report 2 (Odyssey)

Thanks for joining us again on our next installment. When we last left you, we were enjoying our rest day. Although - don't you find that the first enforced rest day is the hardest one to take? You've only done two days of climbing and you know you should rest, but...ohhh, you're so excited and just want to do one more day...

Anyway, we played it smart and it was lucky, because coach Cujes (me) had some brutality in store at one of the premiere cliffs on the island, the varied Odyssey.

It started cold and we were snug in our down jackets, and then fingertips were frozen on the limestone of the warmups. Circe 6b, Femio 6a+ and Laertes 5c+ were all dispatched by the crew.

"What was that one like Glenn?" 
"Dunno - couldn't feel a thing!"

Next it was time for a crag tour to find the line which inspired. With about 50-60 classics of all grades to choose from, it wasn't hard. For Matt, the steep and thuggy Lucky Luca 7b beckoned. For Owen, it was the gently overhung, polished and pumpy Amorpha 7b. Glenn and Susy were seduced by the long and technical Dafni 7b. And me, well, I had an old project from the 2008 camp Marci Marc 7c+ - that super enduro mega line. One of the most coveted routes on Kalymnos.

Owen only had a couple of hangs on his first shot on Amorpha 7b (remember, this is the guy who is supposed to be climbing 6a/18 because of his wrist). Solid, solid effort up front. We spent a good while sussing the top crux and getting the sequence just right. On his second shot, he went right through cleanly to the rest 4m from the top, and even though he rested well, the forearms were out of juice for the deadpoint to the two finger pocket - one move shy of the top. Tragedy! Seriously though, don't you love a route that takes you right to the edge? What a perfect proj - he'll be back for it later in the camp.

Owen and his Amporpha 7b © S Cujes 2010

While Lucky Luca 7b may have "looked onsightable", it wasn't to be for Matt who discovered the start is mega bouldery on steep tufa snake pinches. Not surprising, he found some sweet kneebars and kneescums and came away with a smooth second shot send. Tidy work from the Coolum Kid.

Matt putting Lucky Luca 7b to bed © L Cujes 2010

Dafni 7b is a long and imposing, wandering line up a pure white sheet of limestone. Given Glenn's hardest route is 7a/23, the fact he got on this with no beta, placing the draws and working it out as he went was a bloody top effort. Susy then helped refine beta and they both had shots on it together. This is an ace way of figuring out a hard route, particularly if you both have different styles, as sometimes one person is better at unlocking the sequence and the other person benefits from that. Super fun. No sends, but good learnings and great progress. A potential goer for later in the trip.

Glenn on Dafni 7b  © L Cujes 2010

So that leaves me on Marci Marc 7c+. The route is a full 30m long and overhangs about 10m or so. In 2008, I tried it several times, always avoiding the potential kneebar at half height. You have to climb out to it, put it in, and then climb back onto the line and I always thought it probably didn't allow much of a rest anyway. It certainly didn't feel good when I tried it. But here we are in 2010 and I'm in possession of our newly developed Upskill Friction kneebar pads, I thought it'd be wrong not to suit up and get into them. So I tried the kneebar and yep - pretty dang good with these pads! Second shot I climbed solidly from the ground, through to the kneebar, recovered, and then blitzed the crux. What a relief! 10m victory whipper from the top (thanks Susy's rope and Matt's soft catch) and I'm down.

Me chilling in the kneebar on Marci Marc 7c+ © S Cujes 2010

After the big efforts on our projects, we hit the slabs for some no pressure fun. Sheree once again upped her tally of leading on routes such as Eumeo 4b, Argo 4c and Telemaco 5b, and we all played around on these fun slabs with cool features (big stones sticking out of the more weathered limestone).

Slab fun!! © L Cujes 2010

Join us next time as we steepen things up at the dripping tufa wall of Ghost Kitchen!